Gender fluidity has a long and rich history in Western fashion and beauty. From Coco Chanel paving the way for women’s trousers to Harry Styles’ iconic blue dress on the cover of Vogue, gender fluidity has always been groundbreaking. And as Melbourne has always had its own rich queer history, we thought we might take a beat today to pay homage to all the trailblazers and self-expressionists who got us to where we are today.
Here, we’ll explore the concept of gender fluidity, its evolution in Western fashion, and how gender fluidity in fashion and beauty has evolved to what it is today in 2024.
What is gender fluidity?
‘Gender fluidity’ refers to the way a person’s gender identity (who you are) or gender expression (how you express yourself) changes over time, ebbing and flowing between and outside of the gender binary. In fashion, gender fluidity mainly refers to fluidity in gender expression. For example, someone who self-identifies as male may wear traditionally feminine clothing one day and don more masculine garments the next. Gender fluidity can also look like combining various elements of gendered clothing – a look also called ‘androgyny.’
Early 20th Century
Though fluid gender expression existed in many cultures before the 1900s, modern Western fashion was heavily influenced by trends that emerged in the early twentieth century. In fact, there’s plenty of evidence that suggests the modern chest binders predominately worn by trans men and gender-diverse folks today were originally developed by flapper women in the 1920s to achieve a flat chest and more boyish physique. At this time, fashion icons like Coco Chanel pioneered the flapper style, popularising short haircuts and trousers for women for the first time. Bisexual actress Marlene Deitrich would later help bring this style to the cinema in the 1930s, wearing men’s suits on the big screen and to movie premieres.
This marked a time when women advocated wearing more masculine silhouettes, which, though normal to us today, signalled that women were beginning to break free from the restrictive fashion of the past and symbolised a greater movement toward women’s liberation. Their bravery was the first step in normalising androgyny in fashion, so much so that we don’t think of a woman wearing jeans or pants as particularly revolutionary today!
Mid-century Icons
By the mid-1900s, designers were explicitly designing garments like trousers and suits for women. In 1966, Yves St Laurent debuted a tuxedo for women, which was an exciting alternative to the popular little black dress.
Around the same time, men’s fashion figures began experimenting with gender fluidity like never before. Rock and roll icon Elvis Presley became known for his gender-fluid style, experimenting with bright pinks, floral prints, and tight, bejewelled jumpsuits in a way never seen before. Presley’s gender-bending fashion and penchant for wearing thick eye makeup paved the way for male celebrities to explore more androgynous fashion and beauty, forever changing the aesthetics of performance artists.
In 1969, The Rolling Stones frontman Mick Jagger pushed the boundaries of gender even further, wearing a dress to a performance in London, an act that would begin normalising androgynous fashion around the world.
The 1970s – 1990s
In the 1970s, openly LGBTQIA+ celebrities and figures who opposed the gender binary dominated the charts and continued to popularise gender fluidity in fashion and beauty. Elton John’s name became synonymous with glamorous, glittery outfits and heeled boots, while critics and fans embraced David Bowie’s androgynous alter-ego Ziggy Stardust and his experimental looks with open arms. Additionally, Jimi Hendrix rose to fame as one of the greatest guitarists of all time – all while wearing women’s blouses and high heels. By this time, gender-fluidity was hitting the mainstream, and the lines between men’s and women’s clothing and beauty were becoming more blurred.
As we move into the 1980s, we see more men embracing makeup as a tool for self-expression, growing their hair long, and experimenting with louder, more flamboyant colours and cuts of clothing. Women’s clothes now feature broadening shoulder pads that mirror those found in men’s suits, while women’s hairstyle trends feature much shorter hair. Gender-fluidity is here to stay.
The grunge movement of the 1990s saw famous musicians like Kurt Cobain and Joan Jett rocking completely androgynous looks, which were quickly emulated by fans. Meanwhile, drag stars like RuPaul became popular in the mainstream, shifting the public’s idea of gender on its head.
The 21st Century
In the 21st century, the LGBTQIA+ community has finally attained success with the passing of marriage equality legislation in countries across the globe and growing celebrations like Mardi Gras and Pride Month occurring annually. With the rise of social media, we can now witness in real-time as individuals of all genders gain fame and influence, further normalising and promoting gender fluidity in fashion and beauty.
Designers like Harris Reed, a non-binary individual from the United Kingdom, are being recognised for their pivotal work in blending gendered elements of clothing for a unique and refined look. Then there are trendsetters and trailblazers like Lady Gaga, Janelle Monae, Lil Nas X, Sam Smith, and Australia’s very own Troye Sivan – all strong voices who champion LGBTQIA+ values of inclusivity and self-expression.
The tireless efforts of these figures also make it more comfortable for allies in high-profile roles to experiment with their own self-expression with less criticism from tabloids or just from the public eye. With icons like Harry Styles, Billie Eilish, Doja Cat and more embracing the freedom to dress however they like and encouraging others to do the same, now more than ever, it’s clear that clothes have no gender and everyone should have the opportunity to express themselves however they want.
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Gender fluidity’s long-standing presence in fashion and beauty has given it strong roots that allow it to continue blossoming today. From the flapper style that is reminiscent of modern transgender chest binders to the gender-defying looks of RuPaul, gender fluidity has played a massive role in moving fashion forward. Non-binary, trans, and other members of the LGBTQIA+ community deserve recognition for their courage in expressing themselves and making huge strides in the cultural progress of our world.
Want to chart your own foray into gender fluid fashion and self-expression? Then why not shop local at the South Melbourne Market to see what inclusive apparel you can find on your next market day?
